Prs se tremolo setup


















Search only containers. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts. Search forums. Log in. Change style. Contact us. Close Menu. Click Here. Home Forums Instruments Guitars in General. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. PRS CE Thread starter Yer Blues Start date Jul 2, Yer Blues Member. Messages 9, I already had a On the 01 the tremolo is off the body of the guitar and the action is high.

On the 05 the tremolo is closer to the body and the action is lower. The 05 is extremely easy for me to play, while the 01 is stiff by comparison. Tuners are also stock with a nickel coating. They're nothing to write home about, but do seem to keep the guitar in tune fairly well. Of the two PRS bridges, the tailpiece without the whammy bar is predictably, more stable and more likely to stay in tune.

For those interested, you can also get a version of the SE custom 24 that comes with a Floyd Rose floating tremolo and locking tuners:. At that price, we'd be comfortable saying it's one of the single highest-value electric guitars on the market, just because it performs so much better than other guitars in that price range. A few different factors are in play that are helping PRS keep the cost of this guitar down.

We'll talk specifically about the three most notable. The South Korea manufacturing is a big part of what keeps the cost of these guitars low. However, it's a big part of why they're able to offer the SE series so cheap.

If you lookup a mainline PRS guitar, you'll notice a significant difference in the contour of the body. For example, take a look at the body design on the anniversary model Custom Body contour and design on the mainline Custom This smoothing and curvature takes some significant craftsmanship and is a major time investment.

I've talked to wood workers and luthiers in my area who have said that the increase in price could be justified by this feature alone. Compare it to the flat body style of the SE Custom The body design on the SE Custom 24 is a lot more flat and simplified. While it still looks really nice, it's almost completely flat, with just a little bit of sanding around the edges.

My guess is that this plays a major role in the lower price you get with the SE models. And I can't say I have a problem with it. While I love the aesthetics of the contoured PRS body design, it would have to be considered non-essential from a tone and playability perspective.

Electric guitars that use third-party parts like Seymour Duncan pickups, Callaham bridges, and Grover tuners, are almost always going to be more expensive. It sort of felt like a Fender scale tension, so a bit more but not quite as much as going up a string gauge.

I also found tuning brand from slack faster as I no longer had to ballance out the spring tension just the strings which seems faster. This took as long as a re-tune and felt great with a good action.

I tried this before blocking and the bridge just bombed at the back as the tension went. When I put in my first block it was about 0. I thought I could adjust this out using the bridge screws. Of course this is nonsense and it just lowers the plate and keeps the angle constant.

To fix this is a pain as you have 6 screws to precisely align or you will damage them, or the bridge. So somewhere between the factory and that is probably when that happened. After a first attempt to align it using the end screws to gauge the position and using a digital caliper I got it nicely in line but the bright was too high.

My high e was already as low is it could go and so a higher bridge was no good. I eventually found this video by the Mann[sic] who designed the bridge with PRS 1. This left the bridge a shade lower than it was but nice and flat, I just need to re-set my action to account for the difference. I had strings on when I did this and I should have just taken them off. During the whole process detailed in this post I did them up and undid them several times, which in the end killed the D string which gave up right at the tuner.

They would make far more sense on a Custom 24 or CE model.



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