Diy microsoft surface lcd

You can simply create a link to a script so that you can double-click to disable and double-click to re-enable as needed. For an almost unusable machine exhibiting phantom touch you can use the following technique to get it working:. Thanks very much for your page — very helpful. I have a question about replacement displays and prices.

Do you know anything about what kind of quality I can get trying to save a few bucks? Is it just a bit of a colour profile adjustment or should I invest a little more? Like Like. Hi, I have not been able to verify fitment of the Laptop 3 Give it a few months…. By, just shattered my SP7 screen so I was looking around for infos and I stumbled in your site. Looking at the upper central bezel of the SP6 and 7 I think they are different models.

The six series is missing a microphone hole and the infrared port for Windows Hello camera is different. This implies that it is actually a different screen part. Like Liked by 1 person. Hopefully screen parts for DIY repairs will become available later this year.

Now All I need is to find a deal on the display. I have a spare gb ssd, I should probably clone the old drive to it while I have the SP4 pulled apart. Wish me luck! I have a spare SP4 screen. You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account. You are commenting using your Twitter account.

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. Wear safety glasses in case the glass shatters. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes. You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating. A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

The display board and flex cables sit here close to the edge. Fragile antenna cables lie under this part of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure in step 13 to avoid damaging them. The adhesive is also the thickest here. Insert an opening pick into the speaker opening on the screen and slide the pick between the glass and speaker grille. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the edge of the screen. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout. Slide the pick down the right edge of the Surface to slice through the adhesive under the screen. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on.

Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass. Leave this opening pick in the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing. Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.

Insert a new opening pick into the bottom right corner and slide it around the corner toward the bottom edge. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the screen. Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive. Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes. Insert a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and slide it around the corner toward the left edge.

Be careful cutting under the lower 2. The display cables sit near this part of the bezel and are easily damaged.

Once past the display cable area, do not insert the pick past the bezel. Slide the pick along the left edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive. The adhesive is thickest along this edge, and you may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough.

Round the left corner with the opening pick and slide it along the top edge of the Surface. Stop when the pick is 2. The next 6 inches 15 cm of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel.

Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas. Fragile antenna cables lie under the top edge of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure to avoid damaging them. Insert the point of a pick under the display where you just stopped cutting. On the other hand, you have different fingers, just kidding. On the other hand, you can buy a picture frame and put the LCD screen in the picture frame. Since we will be buying an LCD control board these cables will not be needed again.

Next, once you have removed the LCD panel. Flip it over and look for a model number on the back. You will need this model number to order the correct LCD controller board. I bought the LCD controller board and then received an email from the seller requesting the model number of the LCD screen and manufacturer.

Since the board was coming from China, I received my order about 2 weeks later. Due note to buy one with a power cord! The LCD controller board has the VGA input connection which allows you to connect it to another computer and use it as a second monitor or as a back up in the event the one on your working computer goes out. Mention Instructables they might give you a discount. The LCD controller board is real easy to connect. It comes with all the required cables, except a VGA cable which you will need, in order to connect your LCD to another computer.

Once you have received your kit, proceed to connect it to the LCD screen. The two wires at the bottom of the LCD screen that were connected to the inverter need to be unplugged from the old inverter and plugged into the new inverter below.

Then, plug the power in. Make sure that the LCD control board is not sitting on anything conductive, like metal or it will short and fry. Make sure the computer is on before you plug in the VGA cable. At this point you should have the same image that is on the computer you plugged the VGA cable into, on the LCD panel. To recap: 1. Plug the LCD panel into the inverter. See picture. Plug the transformer into the LCD control board. Connect the other end of the VGA cable to an operating computer.

Next, I attached a 4 inch section of two by four on the outside back of the laptop lid. I needed this in order to attach my stand to the LCD screen. I used 5 screws and screwed them in place from the inside. I did splice and extend the cables going from the LCD controller to the inverter it came with just to have a little more room. Originally, I built a nice wooden stand for my LCD panel but was not satisfied with it.

So, I took a broken florescent desk lamp and dremeled off the section holding the florescent tubes, leaving enough metal to screw on to the two by four on the laptop lid.

Before attaching the stand, I drilled four holes in the metal to make it easier to screw it on the two by four. Next you will need to attach the LCD controller to the laptop lid. To do this, screw in a few sections of wood from the inside of the lid. Then on the outside of the lid attach the LCD control board.

Place the wood in an area where the control board can reach. Next you will need to find all those screws you have been saving and reassemble the LCD screen. I also added some surgical tubing to the top springs for added strength. If you choose to use a swing arm like this one, go with the one that has a magnifier on it and dremel off the magnifier leaving enough metal to attach to your LCD lid. You need one of this caliber to hold the LCD screen.

Swing arms with the light attached are not strong enough. Here is what it looks like on the stand. And Yes, I made the frame for the picture hanging on the wall in the background. By the way, I did remove the web cam from the laptop lid, wired it to a USB cable, and turned it into and external peripheral. I wired the two microphones that I found next to the web cam and turned them into external peripherals.

I dremeled the batteries open and wired them into a 3 million candle power flashlight made from spare parts I had. I have a lithium ion battery charger, so it worked great.

I didn't like the first stand I made. I included some pictures of it above. Since I was asked about the web cam, I though Should add it to the instructable. The USB cable has 4 Wires. Pin 1 on USB 1. I'm not sure if the web cam wire colors change for different models. However, for the DV here is the color schematic.

The web cam is now wired for plug and play. However, it only works on another computer running Windows Vista. There are no drivers for windows 7, yet. Once you have wired it, open Skype on Vista and click on change profile pic.

It will show two web cams in the drop down menu.